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Looking for Fort Fillmore

By Jim Reed

Last updated on Saturday, January 11, 2003

“Today, not a trace of Fort Fillmore is visible. There is not even a historical marker to commemorate the ill-fated post.”
 — Roadside History of New Mexico

The corner of Ft. Fillmore Road and South Main St., Las Cruces (Highway 478) - the only mention or trace of the old fort in the area.

Johnson's New Military Map of the United States, a replica of a map printed for the United States War Department in the year 1861, places all the Forts, Military Posts, etc., and shows Ft. Fillmore, Arizona Territory, positioned aside the Rio Grande, just above Ft. Bliss, Texas and below Ft. Thorn, Arizona. My modern-day H.M.Gousha map of New Mexico shows a Point of Interest symbol for the "Ft. Fillmore Ruins" just below Las Cruces between State Road 478 and Interstate 10.

In the 1840s, settlers streamed westward; their need for security along the southern route to California was recognized. Mesilla, a growing economic colony and an important stop on the route to California, needed protection from raiding Apaches.

In Sept. of 1851, the U.S. Government established Ft. Fillmore near Mesilla to insure the security of settlers and travelers to the area.

The outbreak of Civil War saw Confederate Lt. Colonel John R. Baylor capture Ft. Fillmore after a brief skirmish with Union soldiers on July 25, 1861. Baylor proclaimed Mesilla the capital of the Arizona Territory and redrew the boundaries of Arizona and New Mexico east - west at the 34th parallel north latitude; Arizona below and New Mexico above the 34th parallel. Hence, what is now southern New Mexico was Arizona Territory until 1865 when President Lincoln had the boundaries redrawn to their present positions. Colonel Baylor's Confederate troops left Ft. Fillmore later in 1861 to join other Confederate forces in Texas. Ft. Fillmore was then abandoned and officially closed by the Union in Oct. of 1862.

Eastward towards the Organ Mountains and I-10, the general area directly ahead is where Fillmore stood.

Despite Fugate's book telling me there is nothing left of Ft. Fillmore, my desire to find traces of its presence prevails. On a recent Saturday I set off from El Paso in search of modern day truths regarding Ft. Fillmore.

I drive slowly northward on New Mexico State Road 478, searching to my right, paying attention to each sign I see, looking for either a historic marker or a road to the right telling me that the ruins of Ft. Fillmore are near. Reaching the southern end of Las Cruces, I make a U-turn and head south again. Ft. Fillmore eludes me, but I know it's there; the map says so.

Reaching Mesquite, New Mexico, I turn around and head north again. No signs, no road, no fort. Despite the male penchant not to ask directions, I stop at Scotty II's Grocery half way between Mesquite and Las Cruces seeking help. Bill Kirby, the clerk, tells me "If I remember right, 'bout all you're gonna see is pecan groves. There's a Ft. Fillmore Rd. about three miles down to the left; try it." I thank Bill and restart my journey with the hope that he is wrong.

Three miles to the south I find Ft. Fillmore Road and turn left. After a few hundred yards the road turns to dirt; elegant modern homes line its sides; pecan groves abound. Bill Kirby was right, but I still harbor hopes that something remains of Ft. Fillmore. After about a mile, Ft. Fillmore Road ends. There are "No Trespassing" signs posted, metal gates and irrigation ditches, but no Ft. Fillmore. In disbelief I look eastward towards the traffic on Interstate 10. No ruins visible.

"Dress Right, Dress" military style pecan groves.

My camera captures a large cottonwood, several groves of perfectly aligned pecan trees and the "No Trespassing" sign, but no remnants of primitive adobe buildings, no historical marker. A man drives up to the mailbox post seeking his mail. His response to my Ft. Fillmore query: "It's all plowed up and turned to pecan groves."

I am saddened that I am unable to find Ft. Fillmore. The map's information had raised my hopes that something of the post remained. The quest is not in vain, though, for I have had an enjoyable search, met new friends, taken a few interesting shots, and learned that even the best mapmakers can make unique mistakes.

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